The Philodendron erubescens, better known as the Blushing Philodendron, is a striking and surprisingly easy plant grown for the rich red and burgundy tones that tint its stems and the undersides of its leaves. Erubescens care is straightforward philodendron care, bright indirect light, careful watering, and a pole to climb, with a little extra attention to warmth because this is a cold-sensitive tropical. It is also the parent of some of the most famous philodendrons in the hobby, so learning to grow it well sets you up for many others.
Short answer
Give a Philodendron erubescens bright indirect light to keep its red tones strong, water when the top inch or two of soil dries, use a loose airy aroid mix, keep it warm, and give it a moss pole to climb. It is prone to root rot in soggy soil, so let it dry out properly between waterings.
This guide covers light, watering, soil, humidity, feeding, climbing support, propagation, and the common problems. The erubescens follows the same core rules as the rest of the group, so if you want the wider picture my philodendron care guide covers the basics that apply here too.
What is a Philodendron erubescens?
Philodendron erubescens is a climbing philodendron native to Colombia, commonly called the Blushing Philodendron or red-leaf philodendron. The name comes from its color: the stems and the undersides of its maturing leaves carry reddish-purple, burgundy tints, so the glossy dark green leaves look like they are blushing. The leaves are heart to arrow-shaped and grow large as the plant matures and climbs.
What makes this species especially worth knowing is its family tree. Erubescens is the primary parent of many of the most popular philodendrons in cultivation, including the Pink Princess, the White Princess, the White Knight, the Red Emerald, and the Prince of Orange. They all share its basic care, so if you can grow the species, you can grow its more famous offspring.
Quick care summary
Here is the whole routine at a glance before the detail.
| Need | What the erubescens wants |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright indirect light, no harsh direct sun |
| Water | When the top inch or two of soil is dry |
| Soil | Loose, airy, well draining aroid mix |
| Humidity | Average to high, 50 percent or more is ideal |
| Temperature | 18 to 27 degrees Celsius, 65 to 80 Fahrenheit |
| Support | A moss pole, since it is a climber |
| Difficulty | Easy to moderate, a vigorous grower |
| Toxicity | Toxic to cats and dogs if eaten |
How much light does a Philodendron erubescens need?
The erubescens wants bright indirect light, and light is what keeps its signature red color rich.
A spot near an east window, or a few feet back from a brighter south or west window, is ideal. Bright indirect light keeps the stems and leaf undersides a deep, vibrant burgundy. In low light the red tones fade toward a muddy green or brown, and the plant stretches and grows leggy as it reaches for the light. What it cannot take is long hours of harsh direct sun, which scorches the leaves. So if the color is looking dull or the stems are getting long and sparse, more bright indirect light is the fix.
Keeping the red strong
The burgundy color is brightest in strong indirect light. If your erubescens is fading to plain green or stretching, move it closer to a bright window, out of direct sun, and the new growth should come back richer.
How often should you water a Philodendron erubescens?
The erubescens is a vigorous grower but is particularly prone to root rot in soggy soil, so getting the watering right matters more than with some philodendrons.
Water when the top inch or two of soil has dried out. Push a finger into the soil; if it is dry at that depth, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer. If it still feels damp, wait. This species really does prefer to dry out properly between waterings, so when in doubt, wait a day. In warm, bright months this often works out to about once a week, adjusted by how fast your pot dries. In winter, when growth slows, let it dry out more.
The overwatering trap
Yellow leaves and constantly damp soil mean overwatering, not thirst. Erubescens is one of the more rot-prone philodendrons, so err firmly on the dry side and make sure the pot drains freely.
The best soil for a Philodendron erubescens
As an aroid that is prone to root rot, the erubescens wants a loose, airy mix that drains fast and lets air reach the roots. A dense, heavy soil that stays wet is the quickest way to lose this plant.
A simple mix that works well is about 2 parts potting soil, 1 part orchid bark, and 1 part perlite, with a handful of charcoal or coco coir if you have it. The bark and perlite open the mix up so water drains freely and air reaches the roots. A slightly acidic to neutral mix suits it. Always use a pot with drainage holes, and pot up only one size at a time, since an oversized pot holds wet soil that stays soggy around the roots.
Humidity and temperature for a Philodendron erubescens
The erubescens adapts well to normal home conditions but is notably sensitive to cold, which is the one environmental factor to watch.
Keep it warm, roughly 18 to 27 degrees Celsius (65 to 80 Fahrenheit). It is cold-intolerant and can suffer damage below about 10 degrees Celsius (50 Fahrenheit), so keep it away from cold drafts and chilly windows in winter, and do not leave it outside once nights turn cold. For humidity, average household air is usually fine, but around 50 percent or higher supports fuller, healthier growth. A pebble tray or a small humidifier nearby works better than misting.
How to fertilize a Philodendron erubescens
As a vigorous grower, the erubescens appreciates regular feeding during the growing season.
Feed with a balanced houseplant fertilizer about once a month through spring and summer, diluted to half the strength on the label. Stop feeding in autumn and winter when growth slows. If you ever see a white crust of fertilizer salts on the soil or pot, flush the pot thoroughly with water to clear it.
Does a Philodendron erubescens need a moss pole?
Yes. The erubescens is a vigorous climber with thick aerial roots, and giving it support makes a real difference to how it grows.
In the wild it climbs tree trunks, and that vertical support triggers larger, more mature leaves. Indoors, give it a moss pole or coir pole, pushed into the pot at potting time so you do not disturb the roots later. Loosely tie the stem to the pole until the aerial roots take hold, and keep a moss pole lightly damp so those roots grip it. Without support it will still grow, but as a vigorous climber it tends to get long and sprawling with smaller leaves, so a pole keeps it tidy and encourages the best foliage.
How to propagate a Philodendron erubescens
The erubescens propagates easily from stem cuttings, and because it is such a vigorous grower it roots readily.
Take a cutting with at least one node, the small bump on the stem where roots and leaves form, and ideally a leaf. Cut just below the node with clean scissors, then root the cutting in water or moist sphagnum moss in bright indirect light, refreshing the water every few days. Roots usually appear within a couple of weeks. Once they are an inch or two long, pot the cutting up in your usual aroid mix. You can also air layer it: bend a section of vine into a pot of soil and let the node root while still attached to the parent, then cut it free once rooted.
Common Philodendron erubescens problems and how to fix them
Most erubescens problems trace back to watering, light, or cold, and each has a clear fix.
Why are my erubescens leaves turning yellow?
Yellow leaves, especially with damp soil, usually mean overwatering. Because this species is rot-prone, this is the most common problem. Let the soil dry out properly and ease off the watering.
Why is the red color on my erubescens fading?
Fading red tones and plain green growth usually mean not enough light. Move the plant to brighter indirect light, out of harsh direct sun, and the new growth should come back with richer burgundy color.
Why is my erubescens leggy with long gaps between leaves?
Leggy, stretched growth means the plant is reaching for more light. Move it closer to a bright window, and give it a moss pole so the new growth climbs and fills in rather than sprawling.
Why does my erubescens have brown leaf tips?
Brown tips usually mean low humidity or a buildup of salts from tap water or fertilizer. Raise the humidity, flush the soil if you have been feeding heavily, and consider using filtered water if your tap water is hard.
A note on toxicity
Like other philodendrons, the erubescens is toxic to pets if eaten. It contains calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause mouth irritation, drooling, and stomach upset in cats and dogs that chew the leaves. The ASPCA lists philodendron as toxic to both cats and dogs, so keep your erubescens out of reach of curious pets.
Is the Philodendron erubescens worth it?
Yes, and it is one of the better value plants in the genus. You get the dramatic red and burgundy color of the designer cultivars in a vigorous, forgiving, more affordable plant, and growing it teaches you exactly what its famous offspring need. As long as you avoid overwatering and give it a pole, it is an easy and rewarding grower. My roundup of the best philodendron varieties for indoor growers shows where the erubescens and its cultivars sit among the easier and rarer types, so you can choose the right one for your experience level.
Are you trying to keep the red color strong, or troubleshooting yellow leaves? Leave a comment below and I will help you sort it out.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called the Blushing Philodendron?
Because of its color. Philodendron erubescens has reddish-purple, burgundy tints on its stems and on the undersides of its maturing leaves, which look like the plant is blushing. It is also called the red-leaf philodendron.
Is Philodendron erubescens easy to care for?
Yes, it is one of the easier philodendrons. It is a vigorous grower that handles a range of light and follows standard philodendron care. The main things to get right are not overwatering it and giving it a pole to climb.
Does Philodendron erubescens climb?
Yes, it is a vigorous climber with thick aerial roots. It grows larger, more mature leaves when given a moss pole or similar support, so a pole is recommended.
How do I keep the red color strong on my erubescens?
Give it bright indirect light. In low light the red and burgundy tones fade toward muddy green or brown and the plant grows leggy. Bright indirect light, out of harsh direct sun, keeps the color richest.
How often should I water Philodendron erubescens?
Water when the top inch or two of soil is dry, usually about weekly in warm months and less in winter. It is prone to root rot in soggy soil, so let it dry out properly between waterings.
What cultivars come from Philodendron erubescens?
Erubescens is the parent of many famous philodendrons, including the Pink Princess, White Princess, White Knight, Red Emerald, and Prince of Orange. Caring for the species is a good foundation for all of them.
How cold can Philodendron erubescens tolerate?
Not very cold. It is notably cold-sensitive and can suffer damage below about 10 degrees Celsius (50 Fahrenheit), so keep it warm and away from cold drafts and windows in winter.
Is Philodendron erubescens toxic to pets?
Yes. Like other philodendrons it contains calcium oxalate crystals and is toxic to cats and dogs if chewed or eaten, so keep it out of their reach.
